After years of slouchy clothes and trainers, the suit is back…and so are formal shoes. Whether a reaction to the now more distant memories of living and working through Covid or just a sartorial choice, tailors and traditional shoemakers are delighted to see the return of the suit, overcoats and formal shoes to the catwalks.
What happens on the catwalks, generally filters down to the high street. That’s the whole point of these shows. The top designers inspire a whole season of clothing and footwear. So, get ready for more formal garb for the autumn/winter 2024/25 season.
While there will undoubtedly be some fashionable style upgrades and adjustments, the classic look of the suit remains a tailored two or three-piece teamed with gorgeous formal shoes or boots.
While this is an ideal look for the office or an occasion, the catwalk chatter seems to suggest that elegant suits, coats and footwear will be welcomed in a more casual environment too.
Dolce & Gabanna, for instance, have designed tailored clothing for customers who have grown accustomed to wearing sportswear. The whole aim is to make the wearer feel ‘sleek’ and to embrace the romance of the suit.
While we love the clothes, Herring is all about the shoes! An article in The Times reported Jim Moore, the creative director at large for American GQ and a consultant for international fashion brands, saying: “I was doing a casting and all the young guys, the models, were wearing proper tailored overcoats and hard-soled shoes. They weren’t wearing trainers anymore. They looked smart.”
Let’s take a look at some hard-soled shoes that will complement this casual formal comeback. I noticed that Dolce & Gabanna’s collection was largely black or hues of grey. They used a lot of patent and polished black formal footwear. With black Oxfords and loafers leading the way, alongside knee-high black boots.
No need to fear, we have got all the black Oxfords you need with the leather sole that provides the satisfying clip-clop of a hard-soled shoe.
The Churchill II is a classic Northampton made toe-cap Oxford made on the beautiful 205 last shape. For an unadorned style, the Shrewsbury is a wholecut Oxford made from a flawless piece of leather. Again, if you are looking for standout style, a wholecut will set you apart from the rest.
For a bit of shine, the Newcastle is a classic Goodyear-welted Oxford toe-cap that has a black polished version while the Aston (above left) is a full-on patent shoe.
We’ve got you covered for loafers too. These have long been the go-to when trying to dress down a suit a little. Again, if you want shiny, then the Barcelona comes in a black polished style with classic tassel detail but also in brown and burgundy calf, plus brown suede. The Dillon (above right) has a snaffle trim for a Gucci feel, while the Pisa is more relaxed but no less Italian in their style.
I also feel the monk shoe will be in step with this more formal vibe. We have some beauties in this style. For example, the Salobrena has a sleek shape and is made from a stunning croc-style leather while the Dahl has three buckles and has been beautifully hand-finished.